The door lock on the washing machine does not work.

If the lock on your washing machine doesn't work, you can forget about washing until the problem is resolved. If the lock is stuck in the "Open" position, the washing machine's control module simply won't be able to initiate the cycle. The machine will detect a problem with the door lock, so it will lock all buttons except "On" and "Off," and display an error code. Don't try to bypass this problem; it's best to start diagnostics to determine whether it's a mechanical issue or a problem with the door lock. Today, we'll show you how to accurately diagnose and fix this problem.

List of possible causes of the problem

Even professional service technicians can't immediately pinpoint the exact cause of a door lock failure, as there are too many possible causes. The hatch may not lock due to the following issues:

• the door hinges sagged;
• the plastic tongue on the hatch lock has shifted;
• the UBL broke;
• Over time, the lock guide or rubber gasket has worn out.

If you can't figure out the cause of the breakdown, run the washing machine's self-diagnosis system, which will display the error code on the display.

If your washing machine was purchased relatively recently and is a modern model, it likely has a self-diagnosis system. This helpful feature can prompt you to resolve any problems by displaying a code on the dashboard.

Usually the hatch does not close either due to mechanics or electronics. But no matter what the cause of the problem is, the washing machine will not start washing until the cause is fixed. Let's move from words to diagnostics and repair.

The door mechanism is faulty

Since the door lock mechanism is the most common cause of malfunction, it's the first place to start checking. When a washing machine lock fails, it could be due to a broken locking mechanism, a misaligned element, or even a sagging door. All of these issues can arise from careless operation, such as slamming the door too hard, hanging heavy items on it, or children riding on it.

If the machine won't close at all, and there's no distinctive clicking sound, you're dealing with a mechanical problem. There are several types of mechanical failure.

• The door won't close completely—it's warped. Most likely, the hinges on your home appliance have sagged, causing the lock tongue to no longer engage with the groove. Fixing this is easy—just tighten the hinges and manually adjust the door's level.
• If the door closes but doesn't stay in the "Closed" position, you need to check the strike plate. The metal rod holding it in place may be warped or have fallen out. Fixing this issue will take more time—you'll need to disassemble the door and return the strike plate to its original position. If this isn't possible, the entire part will have to be replaced.

If you plan to do the repairs yourself, buy a new lock only after you know the serial number of your washing machine and have the old lock on hand as a sample.

• A situation where the door can be closed and locked, but there's no distinctive clicking sound. The problem likely lies in the guide. This is a thin plate located in the door lock housing inside the washing machine to secure the door. If the plate has worn down or shifted over time, the door will no longer close and the clicking sound will disappear.

Each of the three listed cases requires disassembling the sunroof and its lock to assess the condition of all components. If the damaged element cannot be adjusted or repaired, a new one will have to be purchased. If you are unsure of the lock's structure or are unsure of your abilities, it's best to call a service center specialist.

Blocking device

If all the mechanics are in order: the lock works, there is the first click, but there is no second one, then it is necessary to check the hatch locking device. It is the door locking system (ULS) in household appliances that is responsible for the electronic door locking mechanism – an additional protection, without which no washing machine will start washing. If the machine washed without this electronic protection, an inexperienced owner or a child could open the hatch right in the middle of the working cycle, which would lead to damage to the device and a real flood.

If the sunroof locking device is not functioning, the door will not lock. The electronic lock may not activate for a number of reasons.

• Wear and tear due to long-term use of the washing machine. If you've been using your home appliance for many years, the bimetallic door lock plate may have worn down and simply lost its electrical conductivity. In this case, repair is impossible and a new protective element will need to be purchased.
• A clogged unit. This is the least serious problem of all, because if debris gets into the door lock, you can simply disassemble the unit and remove all small foreign objects.
• The worst-case scenario is a faulty control board. In this case, the door locking device loses communication with the "home assistant" electronic unit. This could be due to burnt-out circuits, triacs, firmware issues, or a simple system failure. If you suspect this, reboot the machine just in case. If the same error code appears on the display again, a comprehensive check of the control module will be necessary.

While you can check the mechanics yourself at home using basic tools, it's best to leave the diagnostics of your washing machine's electronic systems to professionals. Without professional training and experience, you could only damage the door lock and the washing machine, which will only increase the cost of repairs. Therefore, feel free to check the door mechanism yourself, and leave the door lock and control module to professionals to ensure your appliance lasts a long time.

   

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