AEG washing machine won't turn on
You've loaded your laundry into the drum, poured detergent into the dispenser, closed the door, and plugged it in. However, the control panel isn't lit, and the appliance isn't responding to your commands. We'll tell you what to do if your AEG washing machine won't turn on, and we'll help you diagnose the problem and determine the cause.
Typical breakdowns
Even if you're completely clueless about washing machine repair, it's pretty obvious that LED lights that don't light indicate a power outage. Without power, the appliance can't operate. Therefore, you'll need to check the electronics and electrical system: there's a broken connection somewhere inside or outside the machine. The search begins with the most common issues:
- electrical problems in the premises itself;
- malfunction or power outage of the socket to which the AEG is connected;
- damage to the power cord (faulty plug or wire);
- less noticeable breakdowns (the control module is broken, the "Start" button is burnt out or stuck, the FPS - interference filter is knocked out).
What should you do in this situation? Check all potential fault areas one by one until you locate the problem. Assess the condition of the overall network, the internals of the equipment, and the dashboard one by one.
Is the food ok?
One of the most common reasons why a washing machine won't start is a lack of power in the room. This is especially true in summer cottages and private homes, so first, try flipping the light switch in the room and checking if there's power. Be sure to inspect the circuit breaker or fuses to make sure they haven't tripped. In the event of an internal network fault, starting the washing machine may trigger the residual current device (RCD). Sometimes it is enough to turn off other electrical appliances to reduce the load on the wiring.
The next step is to assess the socket's functionality. Smoke, a burning smell, or melted plastic are sure signs of burnt contacts. If you don't notice any visible damage, try plugging any device you know is working properly into the socket. If it works, then we need to continue looking for the problem.
Important! If you see melted plastic or insulation, dark spots, or smell a characteristic odor, it's best to disconnect the meter and call an electrician.
The outlet melts due to a short circuit, the connection of overly powerful appliances, or poor contact. If you know how to replace the outlet yourself, it's best to buy a new one with a ceramic base. Also, check the condition of the washing machine's power cord—the ends of the plug often melt during a short circuit. Be sure to secure the outlet to the wall tightly so it doesn't move.
Noise suppression filter and other elements
If all the listed components are in order, we move on to examining the functionality of the washing machine itself. The most common culprits are the plug, power cord, and interference filter. Since these components are inseparable on AEG machines, they are tested together. The troubleshooting procedure is as follows:
- it is necessary to disconnect the equipment from the drain, water supply and electrical network;
- move the washing machine away from the wall and turn it so that its back is facing you;
- unscrew the bolts holding the machine cover (they are located at the top under the cover protrusion);
- find the capacitor (usually located on the left, in the lower corner);
- loosen the fasteners securing the main wire;
- Pull out and remove the interference filter together with the power cord.
We inspect the plug for damage, then test the cord using a multimeter. Before use, set the tester to resistance mode and close the probes - the number zero will appear on the display, this will indicate that the device is working properly. Then turn on the dial tone mode on the multimeter; if there is a connection between the areas being tested, you will hear a beep.
Important! Never test the integrity of a live wire; be sure to de-energize it first.
If a leak is detected, the cord must be replaced. Local repairs using twisting or electrical tape are out of the question. Otherwise, you could experience a recurring break, short circuit, and fire.
The second step is the interference suppression filter. Using the same continuity test mode, connect the multimeter probes to the filter contacts. If the result is positive, measure the resistance simultaneously. If the display shows a zero or a one, the capacitor needs to be replaced. To replace it yourself, purchase a new interference suppression filter (depending on your car model) and alternately switch the connectors from the old part to the new one.
The start key is stuck
If you still haven't found the problem, the instrument panel may be to blame. Check the "Start/Pause" button; when it's closed, the entire unit is de-energized. The latest generation of AEG models are protected against this malfunction, but 15-20-year-old units often suffer from this problem. To check the button, you'll need:
- remove the dispenser;
- unscrew the fasteners around the perimeter of the control panel;
- disconnect the panel from the body (do not disconnect all the wiring, just ensure free access to the required place);
- Use a tester to measure the resistance of the start button (with the key on).
Once you've verified the button is intact, measure the resistance of all the other dashboard buttons, including those rarely used. If everything is OK, the next step is to check the control module (located just behind the dashboard). Diagnosing and repairing the module is a very complex and important task. You can simply inspect it superficially and look for burnouts and visible damage on the circuit board. Otherwise, it's best to entrust troubleshooting to professionals, as a new electronic module is quite expensive.
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Washing machine repair
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Dishwasher
When any program is turned on, the indicators work, the drain pump turns on and after 5 seconds the display shows zero.
Aeg. After a vacation, when I turn it on, the LEDs light up and the programs switch, but the wash cycle doesn't start when I press the start button. I replaced the RCD wiring, but the wash cycle won't start without disconnecting the ground. Everything works when I disconnect the ground in the electrical panel. I'm going crazy with a professional electrician.