Error 4 in a Gorenje washing machine
Error 4 doesn't appear very often in a Gorenje washing machine. If you see the F4 code on the display after starting a wash cycle, you have two options: call a service technician or ask your handy husband who knows how washing machines work. Let's look at how to interpret this error code and which parts of the washing machine need to be checked.
The meaning of this cipher
To understand why your Gorenje washing machine is not working, you need to understand the meaning of the fourth code. Error 4 indicates a failure of either the washing machine motor or the tachometer sensor, or a break in the wiring between these elements. Very rarely, F4 notifies about a breakdown of the triac on the control board, which is responsible for the electric motor and Hall sensor.
It's best to entrust repairs to the control module to specialists; without the necessary knowledge and experience, the situation can only worsen.
We are probably talking about the following engine damage:
- wear of electric brushes;
- defect of lamellas;
- breakdown of stator or rotor winding;
- broken wires, etc.
When diagnosing a Gorenje washing machine, each component should be checked one at a time. It's recommended to check the Hall sensor first, and only then proceed to inspecting the electric motor. We'll explain how to perform the diagnostics yourself below.
Testing the tachometer
Before starting repairs, you need to figure out where the tachometer sensor is located in Gorenje washing machines. The tachometer monitors the motor speed and is mounted directly on the rotor. How do you access the Hall sensor? The procedure is as follows:
- unplug the washing machine;
- disconnect the unit from the water supply and sewerage system;
- Unscrew the bolts securing the rear wall of the case, remove it and set it aside;
- Carefully remove the drive belt. This is quite simple: start pulling it toward you while turning the pulley with your free hand;
- Disconnect the power wiring from the electric motor. Before removing the wires, take a photo of the wiring diagram or label them. This will help you avoid confusion during reassembly.
- unscrew the screws holding the motor;
- start rocking the engine back and forth, this will allow you to remove the element from the housing.
The tachogenerator is now accessible and can be carefully inspected. Due to strong vibrations from the machine during operation, the contacts may have become loose or the sensor's mountings may have become unfastened. Error 4 can be resolved by simply tightening the mounting or repairing the damaged circuit. If no defects are detected during visual inspection, the resistance of the Hall sensor should be checked.
For further diagnostics, you'll need a multimeter. First, select the resistance mode on the device. Place the tester's probes across the tachogenerator contacts. If the multimeter displays a value of approximately 60-70 ohms, the Hall sensor is working properly.
Secondly, you can switch the tester to voltage measurement mode. This test will determine whether the sensor is generating current. To perform the diagnostic, place the device's probes against the tachogenerator contacts while rotating the motor with your other hand. If the readings on the multimeter screen change (within 0.2 V), the sensor is working properly.
The tachometer sensor rarely breaks down, so special attention should be paid to checking the integrity of the wiring connection.
Detailed engine check
If the cause of code 4 wasn't damage to the tachometer or connections, you should inspect the washing machine's electric motor. The motor brushes are graphite rods located on both sides of the motor housing. The brushes, when in contact with the rotor, gradually wear down. If the components are severely worn, current is cut off from the rotor, causing the motor to stop rotating. Severely worn brushes will also cause sparking.
To check the wiper blades yourself, disconnect the wiring, remove the terminal, and remove the graphite rod. If more than half of the brush is worn, the wiper blades must be replaced. Both rods must be replaced at once, regardless of the wear level of the second. The damaged parts are removed, the area is cleaned of graphite dust, and new brushes are installed in their original location. The wiring is then reconnected.
If the brush inspection reveals no damage, the rotor winding should be checked. If there's a short circuit, the motor will overheat, the protection circuit will trip, and the motor will simply not start. A multimeter is useful for checking the rotor winding. The following steps are used for diagnostics using a tester:
- set the device switch to the resistance determination mode;
- apply the device probes to the lamellas;
- Compare the values displayed on the multimeter screen with the standard values.
If everything is OK, the device will display a resistance between 20 and 200 ohms. If the winding is open, the tester's reading will approach infinity. If the circuit is shorted, the reading on the screen will be minimal.
To rule out a short circuit in the rotor winding, set the multimeter to buzzer mode. Place one probe on the rotor's iron and the other on each lamella. The tester will beep to indicate a fault.
The motor's condition can also be checked by measuring the resistance of the stator winding. The wires are shorted together, and the tester probe is applied to them (the multimeter should be set to buzzer mode). If the motor is shorted, a characteristic beeping sound will be heard. In this case, the only solution is to completely replace the electric motor. Repairing the motor will not be practical, as rewinding the winding is much more difficult and expensive than installing a new motor.
The problem could also be due to delaminated lamellas. Inspect the lamellas. If you find any defects, you can try to remove the delamina yourself on a lathe or take them to a repair shop.
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Thank you!
Thank you very much! Everything is crystal clear.
Thank you from the bottom of my heart