Electrolux Washing Machine Error Code E30

Self-diagnostics in Electrolux washing machines cannot definitively pinpoint the source of a malfunction. The displayed error code can indicate a dozen different problems, varying in scale and nature. To pinpoint the exact source, it's necessary to check all possible options sequentially. A prime example is the E30 error on a washing machine. What is this error and how can it be fixed?

Service test

The Electrolux error code initially displays a generic code for several faults, but the combination can be clarified using a service test. The specific fault location won't be displayed, but the search field will be significantly narrowed. To enter test mode, follow these instructions:

• turn off the machine from the electrical network;
• simultaneously press the “START/PAUSE” button and the “OPTION” button located next to it, without releasing the keys for 2-5 seconds (until the LEDs on the dashboard start flashing).

To exit the service test mode, you need to turn the washing machine off, on and off.

As soon as the lights start to glow, the test mode will begin. This is an automatic self-test program for the unit, during which the system searches for possible malfunctions in two stages, simplifying the problem-solving process. The first stage evaluates the operation of the buttons and LEDs, and the second stage reads the data.error codes on specific parts. In the latter case, the diagnostic focus can be controlled by turning the gear selector clockwise.

If the E30 error occurs, the programmer should be set to the sixth "position." This position is assigned to the washing machine's heater and solenoid valve, and if there is a problem with them, the system will display a corresponding code. If this occurs, the situation should be corrected by a comprehensive heating element check.

Detailed inspection of the heater

There is only one answer to what to do if you suspect a heating element is broken: test the heater with a multimeter. But before setting up the tester and starting measurements, it is necessary to know the exact nominal resistance of the element. To do this, we recall mathematics and calculate the indicator using the formula R = U²/P, where:

• U – the voltage at which the heater operates, in Russian conditions it is constant – 220 Volts;
• P is the power of the existing heating element. Each one has a different value, so check your washing machine's user manual and look for the corresponding parameter. If there's no manual, search online for the washing machine's serial number.

For example, if our heater's nominal power is 1800 W, and the line voltage is 220 W, the completed formula would look like this: R = 220²/1800 = 26.8 ohms. We'll note the resulting value and proceed to testing it with a multimeter.

Before testing the heating element, you must disconnect the machine from the power supply.

1. We disconnect the wiring from the heater.
2. We set the multimeter to the “Resistance” mode.
3. We set the selector to 200 Ohm.
4. We apply the tester probes to the terminals on the water heater.
5. We evaluate how close the measurement shown by the device is to the previously calculated figure.

If the nominal resistance is close to the formula result, the part is in good condition. If the display shows "1," even repair won't help—only a complete replacement of the heating element will. A "0" indicates a similar situation to a "1," as a short circuit has occurred, and further use of the heater is unacceptable.

You shouldn't rely on the external integrity of the element - dielectric material, which is extremely dangerous to human health, often leaks from the "spiral". It is better to immediately check the case for breakdown by switching the multimeter to the "Buzzer" mode.If you hear a beeping sound after touching one of the probes to the housing, then trying to repair the heating element is pointless – it needs to be replaced immediately.

   

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