The washing machine trips the circuit breaker or fuses
It's not uncommon for a washing machine to trip its fuse or circuit breaker when plugged in or while running. This naturally causes the machine itself to shut down, either before it finishes or even starts a wash cycle, and the power to the entire house is cut off. Sometimes the situation is simpler: the power is on in the house, but the washing machine and other appliances in the kitchen and bathroom don't turn on. Why does this happen, and what can you do? We'll answer these and other questions in this article.
What caused the breakdown?
In such situations, some homeowners, without thinking twice, head to the electrical panel, flip the switch, and continue washing as if nothing had happened. However, if an electrical overload occurs, this temporary solution is fundamentally wrong and even dangerous, as the next overload could destroy your appliance. Experts strongly recommend immediately beginning to look for the cause of the blown fuse or circuit breaker, or delegating these actions to a professional.
There are several common causes of RCD tripping after turning on a washing machine. We thought it worthwhile to review them to make troubleshooting easier. This information will be useful for those who decide to independently identify and fix the cause of a sudden power outage. So, here are the common causes of RCD tripping.
An unsuitable residual current circuit breaker or RCD was installed.
The electrical wiring is not suitable or is simply old.
Short-circuits the washing machine's power cord.
The socket is faulty.
The power filter is faulty, the buttons are short-circuiting (especially the on/off button).
The washing machine control unit is faulty.
The terminals are burnt or the wiring is frayed.
The heating element or motor is faulty.
Please note! If you've never worked with electricity and don't know how to use testers and multimeters, it's best to entrust troubleshooting to professionals—electricians and washing machine repair technicians.
Problems with electrical communications
The machine creates a significant load on the electrical system when turned on and running, so it must be connected to a separate circuit protected by an RCD and residual-current circuit breakers. Special wiring requirements are also imposed on such a network. It is necessary to use a VVG cable 3x2.5, and it does not matter what kind of machine needs to be connected, with or without a drying function.
In fact, automatic washing machines are often connected in any number of ways: to the same outlet as all other kitchen appliances, through an extension cord, and sometimes even through an adapter. This leads to overheating and damage to the wiring and power cord, and melting of the outlet housing, after which the circuit breaker trips and the power supply is cut off. In some cases, identifying a problem with the electrical system is easy: darkened wiring, a melted outlet, and the smell of burnt insulation and plastic are visible.
To prevent the problem from recurring, you must:
install a separate network supplying power to the washing machine according to the diagrams indicated below or according to adequate alternative diagrams;
use sockets with moisture-proof housing;
use devices that protect the network.
Please note! Never connect the washing machine to an extension cord, adapter, or other similar device. Use a dedicated outlet and a direct power cord connection only.
You can check the integrity of the power cord with a multimeter. To do this, remove the bottom panel of the washing machine, unscrew the retaining bolts, and disconnect the power cord. Afterward, you can test the wires to determine if there's a breakdown. It's possible the wire is fine, but the terminals are burnt, in which case they need to be replaced.
Problems with the power filter and button contacts
If you've tested the power cord and confirmed it's working properly, the problem may lie with the surge protector. The device called a surge protector is the part to which the power cord connects. In some cases, washing machine manufacturers combine the power cord with the surge protector, requiring both components to be replaced. The surge protector is a non-repairable component, so if you've tested it with a multimeter and visually inspected it and discovered a fault, you should prepare to replace it.
In rare cases, the machine trips due to a weak connection between the wire contacts and the power filter. This will burn the contacts of both the filter itself and the wires. In this case, don't try to clean the contacts; they should be replaced along with the surge protector, otherwise this could cause further outages and overloads in the network.
An RCD can trip due to faulty buttons or a control panel button. Why does this happen? The main problem is that the button contacts wear out over time. When a faulty button is pressed, the contact breaks down, causing an overload. What should be done?
Use a multimeter to test the contacts of the washing machine's on/off button.
Use a multimeter to test the contacts of the other buttons and the wires going to them.
Please note! Most often, fuses or circuit breakers trip due to a faulty on/off button, so to avoid needlessly sifting through the entire control panel, start with that.
Problems with the control unit, wiring and terminals
If no button faults were found, then we begin the painstaking work of checking all contacts, wires, terminals, and sensors. Since we've already disassembled the control unit, we should start with it. Test all the wiring one by one, starting with the most suspicious components that show signs of carbon deposits, abrasions, and the like.
Important! The control unit is a fairly complex device. Even if you understand electrical engineering and can operate a multimeter at a basic level, it's best to have it tested by a professional. There's a high chance you may have missed a problem.
The problem may not be in the control unit. Use a multimeter to test the contacts and wires going to the engine, drain pump, heating element, and other units and their sensors. Along the way, you need to replace all the burnt-out elements, even if they work, because you don’t want to have to take the washing machine apart again because of one wire.
Problems with the heating element or motor
A faulty heating element in your washing machine can trip the RCD or fuse. Heating elements break quite often, often due to poor water quality or other machine malfunctions. If your water supply has hard water, scale will eventually form a thick layer on the heating element, causing it to malfunction.
The heating element can also break down due to a faulty drain pump. If the drain pump doesn't turn off, constantly draining the tank, the machine will also constantly fill the tank with cold water, following signals from the pressure switch (water level sensor). Consequently, the temperature sensor will constantly signal that the water in the tank isn't warm enough, and the heating element will remain on throughout the wash cycle, quickly exhausting its lifespan. To check and repair the heating element, follow these steps.
Take a multimeter and set the switch to 200.
Open the back (or front, depending on the model) wall of the washing machine by unscrewing several fasteners.
At the bottom of the tank body, you can see two large contacts – this is the heating element.
We install the multimeter sensors on the heating element contacts and look at the display; a value of about 30 Ohm +- 15 Ohm should appear.
If the value is significantly higher or lower, the heating element needs to be changed.
It is held in place by two fasteners located at the base of the device under the contacts; they need to be unscrewed and the heating element will be removed.
Important! Purchase only original parts manufactured for specific models or series of automatic washing machines. A non-original heating element may either not fit or, worse, quickly fail.
The reason for the RCD or fuses tripping may also be a faulty washing machine motor.Engine repair and inspection It's best not to attempt this yourself. This is a fairly expensive component, and replacing it is very costly, so entrust this task to a professional—you can't go wrong.
In conclusion, it's worth noting that there can be many reasons why a washing machine trips its RCD or fuses. An automatic washing machine is a fairly complex device, packed with electrical components and electronics that need to be checked periodically. The cause of the problem must be investigated immediately, as failure to do so could result in the loss of your "home assistant."
Guys, the fuses are blown because the screw that secures the back panel of the machine, with its sharp tip, pierces the insulation on the wires located in the immediate vicinity, that's all.
Mine tripped the RCD whenever I started any program, without even blinking. I just closed the back cover. Hooray! The contact on the heating element had simply come loose and burned slightly.
Could you tell me why the 25-amp circuit breaker that powers the lights and outlets trips when the water in the car connected to the adjacent 25-amp circuit breaker starts heating up? It doesn't trip on its own. I checked it manually, and it doesn't get hot.
Hi all. My RCD trips when I plug in the washing machine. That is, I plug it in, turn the mode selector to any position (the dashboard turns on), and there's no response. I go to the control panel and see that the RCD has tripped, so I turn it back on. I go back to the washing machine, do the same thing, and everything works. It never trips during the wash cycle. It doesn't always trip, but it does quite often. Where should I look? The wiring is new, the cross-section is correct, and there's only one outlet on the line that powers the washing machine.
Most likely, the radio interference filter in the washing machine has failed. How can I check? Connect the phase and neutral wires in addition to the filter and check.
Please help! What could be wrong if, 20-25 minutes after turning on the machine and heating it up, the circuit breakers trip (the water has already heated up). If I turn it on again immediately after that, it trips again. If I wait a few hours and then run the rinse cycle, it rinses everything, spins, and finishes the process without tripping. Is there a problem with the heating element?
Could you please advise? I have a Russian-assembled Hotpoint Ariston washing machine. It runs for 20-25 minutes and trips the RCD. The circuit breaker itself doesn't trip. After 30-40 minutes, we turn it back on and it finishes its cycle without any issues. When the circuit breaker trips, I see water standing in the drum. After 3-5 minutes of turning it on, the drain pump starts and everything drains and spins normally. What should I check? Which unit should I pay special attention to? There are no water leaks in the machine. I suspect one of the motor windings is the problem, but it's also possible that the pump armature is catching on the windings when starting. Could you tell me where to look? Thanks in advance!
Good afternoon! When I turn on the washing machine, everything is fine. Water fills, and just as the drum is about to start spinning, the RCD trips! What's wrong? The motor? Should I replace it, or is it easier to buy a new machine?
My RCD trips when I plug it into the bathroom outlet, but when I plug it into the extension cord from the room, everything's fine. What could be wrong?
Who should I call if I'm a girl and I don't understand a thing? For some reason, the washing machine timer keeps cutting out for the third time. An electrician or a washing machine repairman?
It's not uncommon for a washing machine to trip its fuse or circuit breaker when plugged in or while running. This naturally causes the machine itself to shut down, either before it finishes or even starts a wash cycle, and the power to the entire house is cut off. Sometimes the situation is simpler: the power is on in the house, but the washing machine and other appliances in the kitchen and bathroom don't turn on. Why does this happen, and what can you do? We'll answer these and other questions in this article.
The problem may not be in the control unit. Use a multimeter to test the contacts and wires going to the engine, drain pump, heating element, and other units and their sensors. Along the way, you need to replace all the burnt-out elements, even if they work, because you don’t want to have to take the washing machine apart again because of one wire.
Guys, the fuses are blown because the screw that secures the back panel of the machine, with its sharp tip, pierces the insulation on the wires located in the immediate vicinity, that's all.
Wow, you're just a genius))))
Mine tripped the RCD whenever I started any program, without even blinking. I just closed the back cover. Hooray! The contact on the heating element had simply come loose and burned slightly.
Hello! Is it possible to replace the old 2000 W heating element with a 1900 W one?
Can.
Could you tell me why the 25-amp circuit breaker that powers the lights and outlets trips when the water in the car connected to the adjacent 25-amp circuit breaker starts heating up? It doesn't trip on its own. I checked it manually, and it doesn't get hot.
Hi all.
My RCD trips when I plug in the washing machine. That is, I plug it in, turn the mode selector to any position (the dashboard turns on), and there's no response. I go to the control panel and see that the RCD has tripped, so I turn it back on. I go back to the washing machine, do the same thing, and everything works. It never trips during the wash cycle. It doesn't always trip, but it does quite often.
Where should I look? The wiring is new, the cross-section is correct, and there's only one outlet on the line that powers the washing machine.
Most likely, the radio interference filter in the washing machine has failed. How can I check? Connect the phase and neutral wires in addition to the filter and check.
Please help! What could be wrong if, 20-25 minutes after turning on the machine and heating it up, the circuit breakers trip (the water has already heated up). If I turn it on again immediately after that, it trips again. If I wait a few hours and then run the rinse cycle, it rinses everything, spins, and finishes the process without tripping. Is there a problem with the heating element?
Could you please advise? I have a Russian-assembled Hotpoint Ariston washing machine. It runs for 20-25 minutes and trips the RCD. The circuit breaker itself doesn't trip. After 30-40 minutes, we turn it back on and it finishes its cycle without any issues. When the circuit breaker trips, I see water standing in the drum. After 3-5 minutes of turning it on, the drain pump starts and everything drains and spins normally. What should I check? Which unit should I pay special attention to? There are no water leaks in the machine. I suspect one of the motor windings is the problem, but it's also possible that the pump armature is catching on the windings when starting. Could you tell me where to look? Thanks in advance!
Good afternoon! When I turn on the washing machine, everything is fine. Water fills, and just as the drum is about to start spinning, the RCD trips! What's wrong? The motor? Should I replace it, or is it easier to buy a new machine?
My RCD trips when I plug it into the bathroom outlet, but when I plug it into the extension cord from the room, everything's fine. What could be wrong?
What could be wrong? I plug in the washing machine and the circuit breaker trips right away, but when I plug it into a regular outlet, it works fine?
Who should I call if I'm a girl and I don't understand a thing? For some reason, the washing machine timer keeps cutting out for the third time. An electrician or a washing machine repairman?